loewent via CarKB.com wrote:
> Thanks Tegger for your hard work on that website and input.
>
> So I replaced the Brake Caliper again. Got it from Partsource. I know this
> is not a preferred source, but thats where the original replacement came from,
> and they asked me to try this before they would refund my money.
>
> This time, the clips and hardware that came with the caliper actually worked.
> As I mentioned earlier, I figured that would be one of the biggest reasons
> why the brake was hanging in the first place. Sure enough, upon disassembly
> of the caliper bracket, the old clips were in very sorry shape.
>
> Got it all installed, lubed her up as you indicated (careful not to get any
> on the rotor surface or surrounding areas).
>
> On another topic, as I indicated earlier, I have now confirmed that the front
> wheel bearing is bad on the same side the caliper was dragging. Since the
> caliper was defective, do you think Partsource will help me out on the
> bearing? Pretty sure the reason it failed was due to heat buildup from the
> bad caliper. I guess there is a margin for installation error, but is it
> worth a shot?
>
> So then I bled out the new caliper. Took it for a short spin to try some low
> speed braking to check for pulling left or right, performance, all seemed
> fine. Tried a couple higher speed stops, no problem.
>
> On the highway at 80 km/h I hit the brakes pretty hard. The car suddenly
> went all squirrelly on me, got away from me, and I ended up in the ditch.
>
> So now I have other issues. I am OK by the way. The car is mostly undamaged.
> It definitely needs an alignment now, along with a few suspension components.
> I noticed my rear upper suspension mounts are now both loose. Will replace
> those tomorrow. Here's what I checked over:
>
> 1. Both lower ball joints are under a year old. They seem fine using the
> 'reef on the tire while on the ground' method.
>
> 2. Both Upper ball joints - no extra play. Tried moving the steering
> knuckle back and forth to test this.
>
> 3. Tie rods - no extra play. Just grabbed one and tried moving back and
> forth. There is a small amount of play due to a worn steering u-joint, but
> the tie rods and rack seem OK.
>
> 4. Springs all around. - no problems apparent. Visual inspection in the
> areas Tegger indicated.
>
> 5. Rear upper control arms - both are shot. Once again, the 'reef on the
> tire' method. LOTS of play here. They are definitely shot. The Rear Upper
> arm does come with both bushings (inner and outer) so I am hoping this will
> fix that.
>
> 6. Rear Lower control arms - no noticeable play. Wasn't quite sure how to
> test these, but everything appeared tight.
>
> Did I miss anything?
>
> The car doesn't feel safe at highway speeds right now, though the steering
> seems fine. I'm thinking its the play from the rear upper arms that is
> causing the problem here.

the wishbone civics are very sensitive to the rear being good. top
joints will definitely cause a problem, as will the main trailing arm
pivot. at nearly 10 years old, there's a good chance they need
attention. jack the rear off the ground and inspect for cracking. when
all's good, make sure you get a good rear alignment done.



>
> So, to anybody reading this, when doing your own brake work, BE CAREFUL when
> you road test your vehicle. I was EXTREMELY lucky. and probably stupid. OK
> definitely stupid.
>
> Any input on the suspension inspection is appreciated. Once the car is road
> worthy, she goes in for a final inspection and alignment at the dealer.
>
> Glad I can smile about it now.
> Terry in Winnipeg.
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>>> Good evening,
>>>
>> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>>> and put it in second. Until I hit the gas, only the passenger side
>>> wheel would turn.
>> Check -- according to the instructions on my Web site -- in order:
>> 1) Pads seized on mount bracket,
>> 2) Slide pins seized in bores,
>> 3) Caliper piston seized in bore.
>>
>> You need to pull the brakes apart completely and do a thorough
>> investigation. The usual suspect in the case of a disc brake not
>> releasing is a seized caliper piston (the big one that presses on the
>> pads), but often the rest of the caliper system is in need of care as
>> well.
>>
>>> Other symptoms, which may or may not be related, are that I am getting
>>> abnormal tire wear on the passenger side. That tire is cupped beyond
>>> what I have ever seen, and is now through the wear bars. The tire on
>>> the driver side is fine with about 2-3mm before the wear bars.
>> Wear like this CAN be due to worn suspension components, but is usually
>> badly mounted tire or suspension misalignment, with poor tire mounting
>> covering about 90% of the occurrences.
>>
>>> Also noticed a hum coming from the front of the vehicle which becomes
>>> apparent upon moving.
>> That's the cupping you hear.
>>
>>> Note that I have replaced the caliper with a rebuilt to solve almost
>>> the same problem a year or so ago. However, the rebuild was not from
>>> Honda, and the hardware provided with it did not fit. I had to use my
>>> old hardware to complete. All seemed fine since recently noticing the
>>> fuel economy drop.
>> You can rebuild your own front calipers. The dealership sells the seals,
>> and some Sil-Glyde silicone-based grease can be used as an assembly
>> lube. (DON'T use brake fluid to lube the hydraulic seal).
>>
>>
>>
>>> To remedy these problems, I am thinking about the following:
>>>
>>> 1. New brake pad shims and hardware for the caliper in question
>>> (probably both, just to be thorough).
>> See above.
>>
>>> 2. Complete brake fluid flush.
>> BLEED and FILL only! Do not use flushig compounds!
>>
>> And if you've not been in the habit of changing the fluid every few
>> years, do not use the "pedal press" method of bleeding. Beware of seized
>> bleed nipples. Crack one of those off and you need a complete rebuild.
>>
>>> 3. Check slide pins for wear.
>>>
>>> 4. Replace wheel bearings? (not sure on this, there is some end
>>> play, could a dragging caliper cause the bearing to fail?)
>> Unlikely unless the hub is getting red ot on you.
>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>> Spend some time here:
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
>>
>