85miles wrote:
> On Jul 7, 1:42 pm, Hachiroku <Tru...@AE86.gts> wrote:
>> On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 20:04:38 -0700, 85miles wrote:
>>> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>>>>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>>>>>>> a 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it
>>>>>>> was my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the
>>>>>>> left front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat
>>>>>>> and then warp and shake the wheel.
>>>>>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>>>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to
>>>>>>> me, but I'm no mechanic.
>>>>>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this? I
>>>>>>> really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>>>>>> Honda's.
>>>>>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>>>>>>> the highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk
>>>>>>> almost to the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my
>>>>>>> brake lines? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>>>>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>>>>>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>>>>>> collapsed brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>>>>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>>>>>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings. 3. ensure shock is
>>>>>> not blown.
>>>>>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>>>>>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>>>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>>>>> red.. smoking... etc.
>>>>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>>>>> worsens the longer I drive.
>>>> then why are you driving it???
>>>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>>>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>>>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>>>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>>>> replace the whole thing.
>>>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>>>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>>>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>>>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>>>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>>> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a junk
>>> part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've noticed some
>>> pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is totally messed... It
>>> does slowly release, seems okay on the highway, but in town, constantly
>>> braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor. Im hoping to have this fixed
>>> next week. How much labor am I looking at? If its a pretty easy job I
>>> may try and do it myself.
>> Can you do any work yourself?
>> If so, raise the car on that side and put it on a stand, remove the wheel
>> and LOOK at the caliper. If you can't see anything, then investigate.
>>
>> Unfortunately, since you don't *TELL* us what the car is, I'm guessing a
>> '93 Accord, just because. This procedure is good for '86-95:
>>
>> http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...f1/0900823d800...
>>
>> Check out figures 3 and 4 for caliper removal. There is a bolt with a
>> slide at the bottom, and a pin with a slide at the top.
>>
>> My bet is the slide has seized in it's bore and is locking the caliper.
>> I'm surprised you don't have a smoke show to boot!
>>
>> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
>> hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get some
>> emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides readily but
>> with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back together.
>>
>> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
>> I'm still on the same caliper...
>
> Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds
> the hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight,
> preventing brake fluid from escaping.

ok, that would be an explanation. but there's no way that's going to
happen on its own - it's pure human error. whoever last did you brake
lines was dangerously inept.

> I replaced the brake pads and
> way to go.
>
> I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from
> the rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
> sticking.
>

google this group for the cure.