On Jul 7, 1:42 pm, Hachiroku <Tru...@AE86.gts> wrote:
> On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 20:04:38 -0700, 85miles wrote:
> > On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> >> 85miles wrote:
> >> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> >> >> 85miles wrote:
> >> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> >> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
> >> >>> a 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it
> >> >>> was my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the
> >> >>> left front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat
> >> >>> and then warp and shake the wheel.
> >> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
> >> >>> be replaced.
> >> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to
> >> >>> me, but I'm no mechanic.
> >> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this? I
> >> >>> really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> >> >>> Honda's.
> >> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
> >> >>> the highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk
> >> >>> almost to the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my
> >> >>> brake lines? Any help is greatly appreciated.
> >> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
> >> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
> >> >> collapsed brake line is also utter rubbish.
>
> >> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
> >> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings. 3. ensure shock is
> >> >> not blown.
> >> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
> >> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>
> >> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
> >> > red.. smoking... etc.
> >> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
> >> > worsens the longer I drive.
>
> >> then why are you driving it???
>
> >> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
> >> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
> >> probably have paid for the repair already!
>
> >> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
> >> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
> >> replace the whole thing.
> >> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>
> >> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
> >> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>
> >> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
> >> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
> >> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
> >> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>
> > This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a junk
> > part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've noticed some
> > pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is totally messed... It
> > does slowly release, seems okay on the highway, but in town, constantly
> > braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor. Im hoping to have this fixed
> > next week. How much labor am I looking at? If its a pretty easy job I
> > may try and do it myself.
>
> Can you do any work yourself?
> If so, raise the car on that side and put it on a stand, remove the wheel
> and LOOK at the caliper. If you can't see anything, then investigate.
>
> Unfortunately, since you don't *TELL* us what the car is, I'm guessing a
> '93 Accord, just because. This procedure is good for '86-95:
>
> http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...f1/0900823d800...
>
> Check out figures 3 and 4 for caliper removal. There is a bolt with a
> slide at the bottom, and a pin with a slide at the top.
>
> My bet is the slide has seized in it's bore and is locking the caliper.
> I'm surprised you don't have a smoke show to boot!
>
> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
> hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get some
> emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides readily but
> with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back together.
>
> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
> I'm still on the same caliper...

Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds
the hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight,
preventing brake fluid from escaping. I replaced the brake pads and
way to go.

I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from
the rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
sticking.