On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 20:04:38 -0700, 85miles wrote:
> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> 85miles wrote:
>> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> >> 85miles wrote:
>> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>> >>> a 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it
>> >>> was my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the
>> >>> left front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat
>> >>> and then warp and shake the wheel.
>> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>> >>> be replaced.
>> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to
>> >>> me, but I'm no mechanic.
>> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this? I
>> >>> really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>> >>> Honda's.
>> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>> >>> the highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk
>> >>> almost to the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my
>> >>> brake lines? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>> >> collapsed brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>
>> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings. 3. ensure shock is
>> >> not blown.
>> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>
>> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>> > red.. smoking... etc.
>> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>> > worsens the longer I drive.
>>
>> then why are you driving it???
>>
>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>
>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>> replace the whole thing.
>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>
>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>
>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>
> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a junk
> part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've noticed some
> pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is totally messed... It
> does slowly release, seems okay on the highway, but in town, constantly
> braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor. Im hoping to have this fixed
> next week. How much labor am I looking at? If its a pretty easy job I
> may try and do it myself.
Can you do any work yourself?
If so, raise the car on that side and put it on a stand, remove the wheel
and LOOK at the caliper. If you can't see anything, then investigate.
Unfortunately, since you don't *TELL* us what the car is, I'm guessing a
'93 Accord, just because. This procedure is good for '86-95:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
Check out figures 3 and 4 for caliper removal. There is a bolt with a
slide at the bottom, and a pin with a slide at the top.
My bet is the slide has seized in it's bore and is locking the caliper.
I'm surprised you don't have a smoke show to boot!
If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get some
emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides readily but
with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back together.
I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
I'm still on the same caliper...