Dave wrote:
> "85miles" <85miles@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1183777478.253696.108660@r34g2000hsd.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>>>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
>>>>>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
>>>>>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
>>>>>> then warp and shake the wheel.
>>>>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>>>>>> be
>>>>>> replaced.
>>>>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
>>>>>> but I'm no mechanic.
>>>>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>>>>>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>>>>> Honda's.
>>>>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
>>>>>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>>>>>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>>>>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>>>>> collapsed
>>>>> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>>>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>>>>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
>>>>> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
>>>>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>>>>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>>>> red.. smoking... etc.
>>>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>>>> worsens the longer I drive.
>>> then why are you driving it???
>>>
>>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>>
>>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>>> replace the whole thing.
>>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>>
>>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>>
>>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
>> junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
>> noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
>> totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
>> but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
>> Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
>> at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.
>>
>
>
> I've read through this thread and apart from the idea about the rack and
> pinion which I have no experience with as a possible cause, I would share an
> experience I had. I note in this post you've had a new caliper installed
> too. This is what happened to me too. After a new caliper and rotor
> installation, the brake was dragging and the wheel was getting very hot
> after a drive and burned out the pads rapidly (obviously dragging) -
> replaced the caliper, pads, rotor - same thing.... turned out, the mechanic
> at the second garage solved it: it was indeed a collapsed hose causing it -
> the first mechanic (dealer) when replacing the first caliper was lazy and
> rather than letting fluid drip on the garage floor or into a can, squeezed
> off the hose with vicegrips and broke the inner tubing causing a flap which
> allowed fluid to flow one way when brakes were applied but acted like a
> valve stopping fluid from releasing from the caliper. We could see the teeth
> marks of the vice grips on the hose. Replaced the hose and everything was
> fine.

i don't believe that. cut open some brake hose and examine its
construction - there's no mechanism by which that can happen. the
rubber can't cold-weld to itself, the reinforcement cords are fiber, not
metal - it all just springs back into shape. the only possible way to
cause an internal "flap" would be if the interior lining ruptured, and
if that happened, the hose would balloon [and quickly burst] on
hydraulic pressure, not retain pressure sufficient to lock a caliper.

i might add, i've used hose pinch-off when servicing brakes, both
commercial and private vehicles, for more than 20 years - without
problem. it's standard procedure to avoid total hydraulic fluid loss
and subsequent potential airlocks and bleeding problems. not to mention
a messy workshop. you're supposed to use a proper clamp, not vice-grips
obviously, but as i say, it's standard service procedure. among those
with professional training at any rate.

what i /have/ seen is crappy brake pads that don't fit well binding in
calipers, misassembled springs, jammed piston seals, and old calipers
with internal rust externally painted to look "reconditioned". and
plain old wrong-size pistons getting stuck. i've also seen a new
caliper /look/ like it's jammed because if only one is replaced and the
old one isn't operating properly, the new caliper is doing all the work,
hence it overheats.