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Old 06 Jul 2007, 10:17 pm
jim beam
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Default Re: Brake Caliper sticking, not releasing properly causing wheelshake. What can I do? Help appreciated!

85miles wrote:
> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> 85miles wrote:
>>> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
>>>>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
>>>>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
>>>>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
>>>>> then warp and shake the wheel.
>>>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
>>>>> replaced.
>>>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
>>>>> but I'm no mechanic.
>>>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>>>>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>>>> Honda's.
>>>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
>>>>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
>>>>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>>>>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>>>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
>>>> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>>>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
>>>> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
>>>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>>>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>>> red.. smoking... etc.
>>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>>> worsens the longer I drive.

>> then why are you driving it???
>>
>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>
>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>> replace the whole thing.
>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>
>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>
>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.

>
> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
> junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
> noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
> totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
> but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
> Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
> at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.
>

you definitely need to know what you're doing before undertaking work
like this. at the least, go to tegger.com and buy the honda service
manual from helminc.com.
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