On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> 85miles wrote:
> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> >> 85miles wrote:
> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
> >>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
> >>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
> >>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
> >>> then warp and shake the wheel.
> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
> >>> replaced.
> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
> >>> but I'm no mechanic.
> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
> >>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> >>> Honda's.
> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
> >>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
> >>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
> >>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
> >> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>
> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
> >> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>
> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
> > red.. smoking... etc.
> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
> > worsens the longer I drive.
>
> then why are you driving it???
>
> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
> probably have paid for the repair already!
>
> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
> replace the whole thing.
> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>
> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>
> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.

This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.