Re: Advice wanted - Should it stay or should it go?
"N.E.Ohio Bob" wrote:
>
> High Tech Misfit wrote:
> > I think my '93 Accord is cursed! Up until the start of this year, it had
> > been rock solid with very few non-routine problems. But since the start of
> > the year, it has experienced a handful of silly and/or annoying problems.
> > They include:
> >
> > - Bent shock sleeve causing an annoying squeak over the slightest bumps;
> > - Stiff climate control slider switch (I may have posted about this issue
> > here); panel was replaced with a used one;
> > - Hood release cable broke;
> > - Clogged fuel filter;
> > - Muffler, catalytic converter, and some other exhaust parts replaced due to
> > years of corrosion--not to mention loudness under acceleration;
> > - Left front upper control arm replaced due to play in the ball joint.
> >
> > The first 4 items were minor in severity and cost, but the last 2 items set
> > me back considerably more financially. And now, some more issues have just
> > popped up:
> >
> > 1. When the control arm was replaced a couple weeks ago, my mechanic
> > suggested that the EGR ports be cleaned. OK, I have no problem in getting
> > that done, about an hour of labour. I had felt for some time that the car
> > had been slightly "missing" at times (in fact, I had previously thought it
> > was the tires).
> >
> > 2. This started a few days ago... I have been noticing gas fumes both in and
> > out of the car but it's not always there. It's most evident upon starting
> > the car (cold or warm) and just after it has been turned off, although
> > sometimes it could be detected while driving. I checked for leaks
> > underneath and there were none. In fact, the tank and fuel lines were
> > replaced a few years ago. Would something else cause a non-liquid leak?
> >
> > 3. This started yesterday... the car is once again very loud under
> > acceleration (louder than before the muffler, cat, etc. were replaced). I
> > don't remember what other parts were replaced before besides the muffler and
> > cat, but could there be some other part on the exhaust that would need
> > replacing? I saw something on Tegger's site about an "A-pipe" that is known
> > to cause buzzing, but I do not know if that was ever replaced.
> >
> > 4. Finally, my mechanic (who has always been honest and has done good work
> > on my car) advised me that the radiator will likely need to be replaced by
> > next spring.
> >
> > I have already spent $1700 (CDN) on maintenance this year (above issues and
> > some regular maintenance). But with more money about to be spent on these
> > new issues (radiator will wait for now), I am now wondering if this is the
> > time to consider a newer car. I know that what I have spent so far this
> > year averaged over 12 months is still lower than monthly car payments, but
> > there's no way of telling what will go wrong next and how much more I will
> > have to spend. And I would prefer to spend less time at the mechanic than I
> > have been this year.
> >
> > Then again, even though the car has only 241,000km (~ 150,000 miles), for a
> > car of this age to live through all those harsh winters and numerous trips
> > over ridiculously rough roads, I suppose it doesn't owe me a thing. :-)
> >
> > So what do you think I should do? Should I keep it and maintain hope that
> > next year will be better? Or should I start looking for something newer?
>
> Regarding #2 Fuel smell is probably the fuel line joint where it
> transitions from metal to rubber on the left side of the tank. Take a
> close look, and may be an easy fix. Cut out the old joint and put in a
> small length of hose with two clamps.
>
> About #3 Exhaust might be leaking at the flexible joint on the front
> pipe. If it is, go to the home center and get a piece of galvanized heat
> duct 24' long, and cut it to the right length and wrap it around the
> flex area. Use three stainless steel worm drive clamps to hold it tight.
> This repair will out last the car.
>
> And #4 Radiator is easy, but will cost some money. I have done three
> on my '92, and the last one was free because the one I found had a
> lifetime guarantee.
>
> I am just now struggling with the same questions about my good old '92
> LX. Rust is BAD behind the rear bumper front attach points just aft of
> the rear wheels. Large holes there. This is after a gas tank and cat
> replacement this year. The windshield is cracked too, from rust at the
> upper left roof seam.
> I plan to keep going till the doors fall off because with 235,000 miles
> on it, it is only valuable to me. That is UNLESS I can find a rust free
> White two door coupe that needs an engine! bob
You bring up a good point regarding putting a good drive train into a
rust free body. If I were the original poster, I would look for a rust
free body from Texas, Arizona or southern California that might be
drivable to his location.
JT
(Who will be putting a rust free '82 Civic on eBay soon...<g>)
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