Art M wrote:
> I finally got a remanufactured MC with a lifetime warranty (how long is
> lifetime on a 91 teg) for ~$46 from Autozone to fix the problem described on
> Tegger's site:
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html
>
> A lot of good information there but I just thought I'd add or confirm a few
> points.
>
> Buy the flare nut wrench set (a cheap set cost me $9). You can always return
> it if you don't use it, but you'll probably need it. A stuck nut will
> usually break free suddenly. If you feel it start to slowly turn you're
> probably stripping it. I had to file down a rounded corner before I could
> fit the flare nut wrench on the break line nut and then it came off easily.
> The set will come in handy anyplace where you can't fit a ratchet.
>
While I agree that flare nut wrench set is important, I am not using a
cheap set again. I bought a $9 set at the parts store and found out it
would open its mouth around a nut if it was too tight. As a result,
nuts were getting rounded off. I ended up buying a Craftsman set
(around $20) and left the old set, all lined up nicely, over a car in
the junkyard. Think of it as passing the curse around

> Bench bleeding. I don't have a bench or a vice. I just sat down on the porch
> and placed the break fluid bottle cap between the brick wall and the MC rod
> (top of the cap against the wall). I had filled the reservoir about half way
> so that the plastic tubes were submerged but not so high that I would spill
> any fluid. The edge of the cap stopped the rod/MC movement at about an inch
> as specified in the bench bleeding instructions. I released it very slowly
> each time so that the air bubbles in the bleeder lines going back into the
> reservoir would have enough time to float up rather than reenter the MC.
>
> I didn't have anyone to help so I couldn't bleed the lines after installing
> the MC. The instructions said to press and hold the break pedal down before
> the final tightening of the lines to the MC to expel the air at the
> connection. Doing this might mean you won't have to bleed the lines at the
> wheels. I didn't do either and they still work great. I'll bleed them soon
> though because the old fluid needs to be replaced.
>
>


--
Mauricio raub-kudria-com
(if you need to email me, use this address =)