I finally got a remanufactured MC with a lifetime warranty (how long is
lifetime on a 91 teg) for ~$46 from Autozone to fix the problem described on
Tegger's site:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html

A lot of good information there but I just thought I'd add or confirm a few
points.

Buy the flare nut wrench set (a cheap set cost me $9). You can always return
it if you don't use it, but you'll probably need it. A stuck nut will
usually break free suddenly. If you feel it start to slowly turn you're
probably stripping it. I had to file down a rounded corner before I could
fit the flare nut wrench on the break line nut and then it came off easily.
The set will come in handy anyplace where you can't fit a ratchet.

Bench bleeding. I don't have a bench or a vice. I just sat down on the porch
and placed the break fluid bottle cap between the brick wall and the MC rod
(top of the cap against the wall). I had filled the reservoir about half way
so that the plastic tubes were submerged but not so high that I would spill
any fluid. The edge of the cap stopped the rod/MC movement at about an inch
as specified in the bench bleeding instructions. I released it very slowly
each time so that the air bubbles in the bleeder lines going back into the
reservoir would have enough time to float up rather than reenter the MC.

I didn't have anyone to help so I couldn't bleed the lines after installing
the MC. The instructions said to press and hold the break pedal down before
the final tightening of the lines to the MC to expel the air at the
connection. Doing this might mean you won't have to bleed the lines at the
wheels. I didn't do either and they still work great. I'll bleed them soon
though because the old fluid needs to be replaced.