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Old 08 Jun 2006, 01:31 pm
jqoutlaw@gmail.com
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: 1994 Accord EX - Front Suspension work


Elle wrote:
> <jqoutlaw@gmail.com> wrote
> >I posted last week about a 1994 Accord EX with 235K+ miles
> >that needed
> > suspension/alignment/steering work. It is tugging and
> > jerking the wheel
> > up to around 40Mph, then a had vibration around 50-55,
> > then a constant
> > vibration to about 80Mph. Any transition in speed will
> > cause a
> > vibrationa as well. Oddly, if you go into a corner the
> > vibration stops
> > while turning at speed, but resumes when you get straight.
> > The
> > condition is getting worse, and I'm afraid it is getting
> > pretty
> > dangerous to drive.
> >
> > With the mileage, I'm guessing its the ball joints. The
> > car is showing
> > its in alignment, but its wearing the inside of both front
> > tires.

>
> I don't think you should guess. It could be so many things.
> For example:
> -- Needs alignment
> -- tire pressure incorrect
> -- wheels in need of balancing
> -- worn ____ suspension part
>


Alignment is good this was verified by a family member with an
alignment shop.
Tire pressure is good verified by myself.
Wheels could possibly need balancing... this has not been checked in
the last 10-15K miles.
With the amount of miles on the car, I'm assuming it's a worn out part.

> More importantly, the problem is becoming serious. Maybe it
> is a ball joint about to fail completely. A good report on a
> failed ball joint appears at
> http://tegger.com/hondafaq/lowerballjoint/index.html.
>


Valuable peice of information thanks.

I've also been using this page from tegger:

EBSCOHost Research Databases
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/online-manuals.html

> You're right to be careful. I agree you should //strongly//
> consider not driving the car further.
>
> You're probably capable of doing at least a cursory check of
> the ball joints by yourself. For one thing, you want to
> check their boots. If torn, the possibility is higher that
> the ball joint is about to fail. Checking for excessive BJ
> play is described at
>
> http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d800d1b9e.jsp


Thanks for the link. That's what I'm afraid of. The car is mostly
driven in the city under 40Mph thankfully.

>
> On the other hand, if you need this car functioning right
> away, I recommend calling an alignment shop and asking
> whether they check the ball joints and for general wear
> during the alignment. If so, have an alignment done, but
> especially note what the shop says is worn.
>
>
> If you really do have the time, google for {"ball joints"
> "tire wear" pattern inner} and a lot of fine articles come
> up. Read more, so you know how broad this subject is.
>
> > I figure a lot of bushings are worn out up front as well,
> > and found
> > this auction on ebay:
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97...QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > For around 160$ shipped this looks like a steal, but
> > wanted to see if
> > anyone had any input on it. Wouldn't it be easier to just
> > replace all
> > these parts at one time while the front end is apart?

>
> Contrary to the assertion of this ebay advertisement, these
> items are not //all// of the usual wear items. There are
> others. For example, the lower control arm bushings may be
> easily examined with the car on jackstands or ramps. Cracks
> in these bushings are common and will be obvious.
>
> Whether this ebay item is OEM ( = genuine Honda) is also not
> clear. it looks like an aftermarket parts dealer, like
> Autozone. From my reading and some experience, non-OEM
> rubber anything is not worth what you pay. I note that I am
> frugal and learned this the hard way. Now I pay more
> upfront, but the parts last longer. I sleep better. :-)
>


Thing is we're only trying to make the car last another year or two of
regular use, longevity is not as big of an issue. I'm pretty frugal
myself. I will look into higher quality items though, considering we
won't be trading the car in. It more than likely will be a beater after
it is replaced... albeit a nice beater.

> > Do you think it would be a tough job for a DIY'er. I have
> > access to a
> > lot of tools, impact wrenchs, etc... , but not a lift.

>
> I have been replacing a lot of my suspension components
> recently on my 91 Civic. These include the stabilizer links
> (easy job; mine were very badly corroded on one side); lower
> control arm bushings (have done bushings on 3 of four arms
> now); front coil springs. Freeing frozen bolts on the
> control arms, and removing old bushings and installing new
> ones, all by one's self, is an adventure. That is, they're
> only for a person with a lot of time and interest.
>
> I have done all of it on jack stands and rhino ramps. A
> lift would be nice, but if you're not too large a person and
> can easily get under the car with it on ramps and
> jackstands, the suspension work is quite manageable.


Yep not too large of a person here. I would have help from 2 other
people too, and would like to tackle the job in a weekend.

>
> I am spending a lot of money on tools (or fabricating my
> own). Still, the cost is far below what I would pay a shop.
> Plus I will know that, for example, the trailing arm
> bushings (in the rear) were correctly installed (orientation
> of them is a bit tricky; shops have been known to mess it
> up).
>
> What kind of auto repair experience have you, anyway? If
> you've never done, say, a timing belt and brake pads, then I
> don't think you're ready to tackle suspension renovation.
>


I myself have changed pads, one of the radiator fans, radiator hoses,
bled the brake system, regulary change the oil, etc.. on this car. On
my previous car, a 96 Explorer I changed pads, shocks, oil, plugs,
wires, etc...

It's my soon to be wifes car and she has had it since she was 16. Her
dad is who knows a lot more than me about this stuff and who will be
helping me. He's assisted me with a lot of help on this car. He
restored a 76 Celica with a full engine swap so I beleive he is pretty
knowledgable, although I follow by the book a little better than him.

> Also, has the car been driven in a snowy, wet climate for
> much of its life? That will indicate somewhat how difficult
> the bolts will be to free.
>
> Lastly, has the car (driven perhaps by a teenage son) hit
> anything since the problem started occurring?


The car has been in a hot and humid environment its whole life, the
southeast. The shaking has gotten progressively worse that is for sure.
I would say around 200K mark is around when it began. As of lately when
it started getting into the 90s here is when it begin to get real bad.
It has gotten even worse in the past month.

Thanks for the advice... pretty much what I needed to hear. I'll do
some visual inspections and see if the suspension is within spec.

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