I have successfully removed the larger bushing in a front
lower control arm for a 91 Civic. The final methodology is
not that labor intensive at all.
Here is an outline of the steps for removing the bushings:

1. With the control arm in a vise, //drill// holes in the
rubber bushing all around the circumference. Use three
different size drill bits, smaller to larger. Use cutting
oil. The rubber drills much easier than steel, though.

2. //Press// out the core (= most of the rubber and the
inner-most metal sleeve) using the method described at
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html

3. //Saw// the outer sleeve using an ordinary hack saw,
making two cuts about 1/4-inch apart. Be careful not to go
all the way through the sleeve into the control arm metal. A
new blade is desirable, though I used a beat up old blade
and it didn't take long. Use cutting oil.

4. //Tap// the 1/4-inch section out using a chisel or really
any old beat up screwdriver and a low-weight hammer. It
comes out pretty easily. A pair of pliers may come in handy
to twist out where you didn't completely saw through. You
can now push the remainder of the outer sleeve out by
tapping around its circumference. Or it literally peels out
with light tapping.

Applying PB Blaster to the outer sleeve area a day or two
before this, as I did, couldn't hurt.

I am not nearly, physically as wiped out as I was after
using my coil spring compressor to replace the springs on my
front suspension. The worst part has been driving around
finding the right sockets for step 2. I got flustered with
the outer metal sleeve and how that figured into this.

Much of the above comes from Ned Buckmaster, who posted in
1999 on this subject at rec.autos.makers.honda . Ned
actually said one could twist out the core part (step 2).
But I had my sockets already (some used, so I couldn't
return them). Alternatively, plenty of folks in the
rec.autos.tech and other auto archives said one could
propane torch out the core. Someone also noted that an EZ
saw (one of those little portable hand-held electric
jigsaws) worked, too.

It's possible that Max Cooper's little
sockets-bolt-nut-washers home-made press might work with
near perfectly-sized sockets and a little heat, like Curly
suggested.

My local junkyard had a bent-up old control arm that the
owner sold me for around $10 (more parts were part of the
deal, so that's just an approximation). I told the guy what
I was doing and he got a kick out of it. Then we proceeded
to haggle the heck out of this, as is now our custom. I
asked how much he was charging me today for the
"entertainment" of his wild reasoning for the price being
such-and-such, and he laughed. I wanted it; he had it. Fair
trade.

Contrast this with the yahoo at another yard who said I'd
never get the bushings out: 'Ya need a 50-ton press.' I
smiled and said, "Perhaps... " ;-)

I also picked up one old pulley bolt washer and several
thick, Grade 8-looking suspension washers lying around the
yard. These washers seemed to be much better for this
project than what Max used. This includes the false starts
where I didn't have things set up right and applied way more
force than necessary for what I was actually trying to
achieve. I bent one suspension washer a bit, but the pulley
bolt washer was tough and is now looking no worse for the
wear.

I've started some photos and hopefully will put this up at
my web site soon.

Onto seeing if I can get the inboard lower control arm bolts
fully out.

My ball joint separator arrives Thursday. Super fast
shipping from that Ebay seller, JTC auto tools, whom Ryan
cited earlier in a link.

I will order new bushings from Kingmotorsports.com soon.
Then, possibly using Grumpy's tip about heating the arm and
Tegger's tip about cooling the bushings, onto full
replacement of the front lower control arm bushings.