jim beam wrote:
>
> jmattis@attglobal.net wrote:
> > If I had an oil change and kendall was put in, I wouldn't lose sleep
> > over it. But you can do better over the long run, in terms of assurred
> > low wear and sludge formation. I suggest a steady diet of Pennzoil,
> > Pennzoil Platinum synthetic, Mobil 1 synthetic, Chevron, or Motorcraft.
> > These oils are proven to be high quality over the long run. See oil
> > analysis results at: www.bobistheoilguy.com
> >
> while i think bob means well, spark analysis cannot give /any/
> information on the organic content of oils, only the metallic. hence,
> there's no real info on base stock, viscosity modifiers, seal
> conditioners, detergents, antioxidants, etc.
>
> i really have a problem by this spark analysis based endorsement of
> motorcraft. so what if the metallics are present in the same quantities
> as other oils? my hands-on real life experience is that motorcraft is
> utter garbage. it makes honda oil seals leak like sieves and the engine
> clatter like a bag of loose gonads. reverting to castrol gtx cured my
> oil leaks and quietened the engine down completely.


I use Castrol in most of my vintage tin and oil consumption is half of
that of major brands such as havoline, Quaker State/Penzoil, etc. The
only other brand that in my view is credible is Valvoline. Some
individuals swear by Shell Rotella.

Personally, I think that dino oil is fine for use in internal combustion
engines provided timely oil changes take place. 2,500 miles for
mediocre stuff such as Quaker State etc and as much as 5K for Castrol.

JT