honda man wrote:
> n8zdogg wrote:
>
>>Had the exact same thing - check your belt tension. Mine was fine after
>>replacing the belt.
>>
>>
>>--
>>n8zdogg
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
> Well, I got around to looking at the cause of the ticking noise, and
> found out what was happening. The timing belt teeth were hitting the
> plastic "Timing Belt Back Cover" (behind the cam gear) and the "Timing
> Belt Front Upper Cover" rear bolt sleeves causing the ticking or rattle
> noise! Seems the timing belt between the water pump and the cam is too
> loose causing it to make contact with the bolt sleeve. The timing belt
> between the cam and the crank is tight, but seems too loose between the
> water pump gear and the cam...and I guess it is given the fact that it
> is making contact with the plastic bolt sleeve!
>
> Soooo, I thought simple fix, just readjust the timing belt, which I did
> do, tried multiple times, (set engine to TDC, loosen adjusting bolt,
> rotate engine counter clockwise three cam teeth, and tighten adjusting
> bolt) belt still seems to loose. Next I tried "helping" the tensioner
> tighten the belt by pulling up on the timing belt tensioner with a
> "customized wire hook" but when I pulled up on the rear timing belt
> tensioner, it seemed as though it was as high as it would go, and would
> not pull any higher. I even tried to push or rotate the water pump
> gear clockwise to aid the tensioner in pulling the belt tight! Again,
> it seemed like the tensioner was as high as it would go, and still
> could not seem to get the belt between the water pump and the cam any
> tighter. I performed all of this with only the upper timing belt
> cover, and valve cover removed. With a flash light, I looked down near
> the spring on the rear tensioner, and it looks like the tensioner is
> pulled all the way up, as if it is not able to get any higher, or pull
> the belt tighter. The "wing" part of the tensioner bracket that allows
> you to lock it in place by inserting a lower cover bolt, is pulled up
> beyond the bolt hole on the block, as if it is as high as it can go.
> Hopefully you know what I mean, from my description.
>
> At this point, not being able to get the belt any tighter, I decided to
> trim back the upper cover sleeve with a razor blade about 1/8 - 3/16 of
> an inch, so the belt will not make contact with it. Was still able to
> insert the bolt without any trouble. Started the engine, and the
> ticking is gone, however, I think the belt is still too loose. How can
> I get this belt tighter? Seems like it is not loose enough to jump a
> tooth on the cam, but think it needs to be tighter.
>
> It's a new honda timing belt, can't be too long...
>
> Any help here?
>
> Thanks all!
>

what a /huge/ pita! sounds like you have been given the wrong belt.
the correct belt /definitely/ tightens ok, and the idler pulley is /not/
at the end of its slot when tight. even if the part number on the box
is ok, it doesn't mean the belt inside was correct - factory mixup and
all that... can you check the number on the belt while it's on the car?
also, double-check the model number on the engine in case it was
swapped out before you got it.

one more thing, when you have everything back to normal, don't "help"
the belt tighten. the correct procedure of tensioning the run between
the cam & the crank, then allowing the tensioning spring to do its work
gives exactly the correct belt tension - and there will be no slop. any
more than that and the belt can fail prematurely, water pump bearings
fail, etc. etc.