jim beam wrote:
> KWW wrote:
>
>> Put in a replacement engine in a car. When I went to adjust the
>> timing, the 15 degree BTDC mark was way up so that I had to look up in
>> the timing hole to see it (could not look straight in and see it). I
>> estimated roughly that it was another 15 to 20 degrees out. The check
>> engine light is ON. The engine ran very smoothly.
>
>
> i thought all the ignition timing marks were on the pulley wheel, but
> let's move on... and you need to let us know the code.
>
>>
>> After my daughter's '93 Accord's engine "died" I came across a
>> well-recommended place with low-mileage replacement engines (from
>> Japan) and got a good deal on a very clean 2.0 litre engine.
>> Replaced all seals, used old intake and exhaust manifold, and old
>> wiring harness.
>> Used the old distributor and coil due to external vs internal coil and
>> associated wiring differences.
>
>
> ok, to fire at the right time, the computer needs a sensor to let it
> know where tdc is.
>
>> Kept the new motor's sensors (that were in the block)
>
>
> are they a different style/location or merely "new" as in new to you? if
> you're using the old distributor/sensor kit, you also need the old
> sensors, or at least, the timing sensor, and it needs to work exactly
> the same as before.
>
>> but the fuel-injection and stuff from the old engine came along with
>> the intake manifold.
>>
>> Verified that "T" on the flywheel (backplate) corresponded to highest
>> point on #1 cylinder.
>> Triple checked timing marks for timing belt (3rd time after running it
>> for a little).
>> Absolutely certain that the distributor is correctly set in the motor.
>
>
> haynes manuals are abysmal. check with the helm manual, or there's
> online sources for this info - go to tegger.com & poke about. on the
> civic, different models use different timing regimes on what is
> apparently the same motor, so be sure you're using the right one in this
> case too.
>
>>
>> Per the Hayes manual I did put a jumper in the blue connector in the
>> passenger compartment to perform the timing check.
>
>
> sounds right.
>
>>
>> That is when I took off the valve cover and top timing belt cover and
>> used a straight-edge to triple-check that the timing belt was not off
>> by a tooth. It was dead on with the top of the head.
>>
>> A Honda technician suggested that either my timing light is off,
>
>
> possible. make sure you have a clean cable run so it's not picking up
> stray signal. and if it's ok on your other cars, it should be ok here.
>
>> or the car's computer may be trying to compensate for something,
>
>
> possible, but if it's in "safe" mode, it's usually retarded, not advanced.
>
>> causing the timing to be way advanced. He mentioned something about
>> another jumper under the hood,
>
>
> on older models. it was moved inside for yours.
>
>> but the manual only mentioned the one inside the car. The guy further
>> suggested trying to drive it and see if it revs up well, does not bog
>> down, runs without pinging, etc. If it does, he thought it should be
>> fine.
>
>
> ugh.
>
>>
>> Has anyone run across this before? Is there any way to "reset" the
>> computer if that is the problem? Might there be a bad sensor involved?
>
>
> revert to the old sensors, use the pulley wheel timing marks, and take
> one last look at the cam timing.

i should add: if this motor had a different style [internal coil]
distributor, it makes me suspicious of there being a difference
associated with the cam compared to your old [external coil] motor.
manufacturers often change stuff like this to muddy the water on
commodity swaps - or at least, to make sure anyone doing it knows what
they're about. do the two motors have the same model #? sounds like
the new motor is updated.

>
>>
>> Trying to keep 5 cars running and this one is taking an inordinate
>> amount of time.
>>
>> TIA,