"Howard" <howardh@nospam-cybrstar.com> wrote in message
news:01fve.3335$gr.3003@bignews1.bellsouth.net...
> Where did you get the $300-$400 figure from? I wouldn't think that pipe or
> hose is more than $50-$60. Would it cost more than an hours labor to drawn
> down the system and replace the hose/pipe? I wouldn't think so.
> If you do the job, convert to R134A while you have the system evacuated.
> It
> will cost you less now and in the future. The valves necessary to convert
> are much more than $5-$10 each and R134A should be not more than $20-$30
> to
> recharge your system. You DO NOT need any other parts to convert providing
> your a/c system is in decent shape. The difference in the freon types
> should
> pay for your labor alone and save you on any future a/c work. You'll need
> a
> new receiver/dryer for maybe $60 also. Add up even the high ends and I
> think
> you'll find it less than you think, unless of course there' more to the
> repair than you indicate.
> Howard

It's important to note some receiver/driers and even some compressor seals
are not compatible with the R-134a system. Once upon a time I saw a table of
cars and whether the receiver/drier had to be replaced when converting, but
I don't know where it was. In general, I don't recommend DIY conversions -
I've rebuilt an engine and do nearly all my own work, but I hired out the
conversion on our Volvo. For more by-the-ways (including legal
restrictions), see
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener...a060301a_4.htm

My daughter's '93 LX uses R-12 (label under the hood, passenger side) so I
imagine this one does also. I don't plan to convert unless it is absolutely
necessary - fewer unknowns that way.

Mike