"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:425B5EE7.EBFF24D4@junkmail.com...
>
> "té_qui" wrote:
>>
>> Need people's expertise here. I have a 92 VX with the VTEC-E. I'm having
>> problems with something I have yet to discover. My question is ... In my
>> quest for the search of my problem, is there a way to manually activate
>> the
>> VTEC to always be on. Right now, The VTEC-E is set to activate at about
>> 2500-3000RPM. My problem is that below these RPM, I get very low
>> performance
>> but as soon as I hit 3000RPM, the VTEC or whatever kicks in very hard to
>> scream down the road. So I'm basically trying to see if it's the VTEC not
>> properly engaging itself or if it is something else. If I unplug the VTEC
>> spool valve or the pressure switch, don't remember which, I pretty much
>> solve
>> my problem but have no VTEC above 3000RPM.
>> Any Ideas on how to activate VTEC? Do I need to ground the Spool valve or
>> the pressure switch?
>> Thanks
>> Frank
>
>
> Some service manuals call it a spool valve, other a solenoid valve, I
> guess spool valve is a poor translation from Japanese, a solenoid is, in
> effect, a spool of wire. I'll refer to at is the VTEC Solenoid Valve
>
> The VTEC Solenoid Valve is always grounded, it is turned on by applying
> voltage to the single pin connector. The service manual is somewhat
> confused on the issue, in the wiring diagram it shows the wire from the
> ECU to the VTEC Solenoid valve being ORN/WHT. It then connects to the
> engine wire harness where it changes color to GRN/YEL. Now, in the
> troubleshooting section it say to apply battery voltage to the GRN/WHT
> terminal to open up the VTEC Solenoid valve. My interpretation is that
> you should remove the 1-pin connector from the VTEC Solenoid Valve and
> apply battery voltage directly to the pin on valve.
>
> I would be cautious about this. Under normal operation, VTEC will not
> engage unless the engine is warm and the oil pressure is sufficient. I
> would pull a wire from the VTEC Solenoid valve into the cabin and either
> have lighter plug type connector on it or some sort of switch to +12V.
> That way you can engage it while driving and make sure the engine is
> warmed up before doing so.
>
> Sounds to me like VTEC is slow to disengage in your engine. I don't know
> if there is a port to release oil pressure when VTEC is disengaging, or
> if it is just expected to leak down. In either case, If you are close to
> doing an oil change, you could try using the thinnest oil recommended
> for your engine (or even spring for a full synthetic) and see if it
> helps.
> --
> ================================================== =====
> A very modest collection of Honda tech info can be found at:
> http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph


I got to do what you mention, connect 12V via a switch and with that I was
able to recreate my symptoms. Driving with VTEC off is smooth all the way to
about 4500-5000rpm at which point I have not much power left. That's o.k.
However, activating the VTEC at 2500rpm almost stall the engine at first but
it picks right up after 3500rpm and accelerates fast to 6000+rpm.. If
activating at 5000rpm, almost feels like a common VTEC found in civic SI.
So the VTEC solenoid valve is probably not my problem. Maybe the pressure
switch is, or maybe a clogged solenoid valve filter. If I activate the VTEC
at cold, it reduces engine speed.(Does engine have high pressure when cold
idling?) When warm, no effect at idle(Is there little if no pressure when
idling warm?). Thus, since my hesitations or loss of power occurred at
around 2500rpm but than kicked in power at 3000rpm, I would presume I might
have a pressure related problem. Like you said, I'm probably having a VTEC
engaging trouble. Pressure might be too little at 2500-rpm to activate VTEC
but high enough at 3000=rpm. What do you think of this? Would you have any
other suggestions or probable solutions? anyone welcomed.
thanks for the great help
Frank