jim beam wrote:
> halo2 guy wrote:
> >
> > "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> > news:1113278259.7339e2c5210367c0d0c4d61edad6e696@t eranews...
> >
> >>y_p_w wrote:
> >>
> >>>jmattis@attglobal.net wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>mike113 wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand
> >>>>>of oil do u
> >>>>>people think is good.
> >>>>
> >>>>I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles.
> >>>>
> >>>>If I switched to synthethic, I'd use Mobil One 0-W20. Yes,
> >>>>it's showing better oil test numbers than 5W20.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20. They still may be
making
> >>>a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids). However - there's now a
Mobil 1
> >>>5W-20 on the market. Also - Mobil's datasheets show that Mobil 1
> >>>5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20.
> >>>
> >>>I suppose the problem some people are having with the
"conventional"
> >>>5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear
> >>>additives to make it protect adequately. Mobil 1 probably doesn't
> >>>need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their
oil
> >>>>change interval. Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>What the heck is "dino" oil these days? Many "conventional" oils
use
> >>>higher performance "Group II" base. Some may even be
semi-synthetic
> >>>(even without being labelled as such), although the definition of
> >>>"synthetic" is a but murky these days. Ford's Motorcraft 5W-20 is
> >>>labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it's unclear who
makes
> >>>it for them (or if they change suppliers often).
> >>>
> >>
> >>that motorcraft stuff is abysmal. i was initially attracted to the
price
> >>& the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking
badly
> >>within a few hundred miles. as in the main seal was leaking onto
the
> >>exhaust so bad you'd leave a smoke trail through the car park. the
motor
> >>started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too. i'm now
back on
> >>castrol & the leaking has all but stopped. 89 civic.
> >>
> >
> > So you take an 89 Civic and just put in synthetic? So I guess the

> fact that
> > your seals are bad in the first place doesn't really matter to
you. The
> > only thing synthetic did was clean your engine and seals of crud
that
> had
> > accumulated and now they are leaking. Put the old dino oil back
in and
> > hopefully it will sludge up enough again to seal the engine up for
you.
> >
> >
> sorry to burst your little bubble, but castrol is semi-synthetic too.

> it simply has a much better base & superior additive package than
that
> ford garbage. that's also why it doesn't leave the engine rattling
like
> a bag of nails. that ok for you?

What the heck is "synthetic" these days? I'm getting the feeling that
in order to get decent performance out of a 5W-20, even the so-called
"conventional" 5W-20 oils are using some Group III or PAO base oils.

As for Castrol - they're rumored to used older "Group I" base oil for
most of the Castrol GTX lineup, while most others have gone to more
advanced "Group II". Pennzoil calls their base oil "PureBase", Chevron
uses "IsoSyn", while others just say "group II".