Yeah, I'm getting 12V to the coil. I also registered 1 ohm across the primary terminals; the Haynes manual says that it should be between 0.6 to 0.8. The secondary registered 15.3 ohms, which is just fine. But since the primary reading was high, does that mean the coil is bad? Also the wires that run the tachometer (?), yellow/green and blue, had no continuity between them regardless of the ignition being on or off, but there was continuity between the blue wire and chassis ground. According to the manual, this means there is a short "somewhere". (yeah, thanks Haynes, that's real helpful) However, since both of those wires connect to the ICM, does that mean that the ICM is bad? There are no blown fuses anywhere, so I'm not sure about a short in the ignition.
"remco" <whybcuzREMOVE@THISyahoo.com> wrote in message news:sF4Td.19799$ZY6.5352@fe08.lga...
Maybe you knocked a wire off the ignitor? Are you sure you are getting 12V to one side of the coil, for one?
"BigBadBob" <themightymutt2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:Rb-dnVZzroIkWoHfRVn-rg@sedona.net...
I just recently tried to replace the distributor cap and rotor on my 94 Integra LS (non VTEC). There was nothing wrong with them, I just felt that it was time to replace them. The replacements looked identicle for both parts, but when I put them on, the engine would crank but wouldn't fire. There was no spark getting to the plugs. Or if there was, there wasn't enough juice to make them fire. I double-checked the firing order, left the old rotor on with the new cap, the old cap on with the new rotor, and then finally put the old rotor and old cap back on, but still no go. I would havbe at least expected it to fire with the old parts back on there, so what could have happened? The plug wires appear in good condition and the ohm reading is well within the limitations listed in the Haynes manual. Did some part pick out this PERFECT time to go out? Any ideas as to what I should check out next?