>All these are just Hall-effect sensors. They use the small v*oltage
created
>by the proximity of a magnet to signal to the ECU.

So the black rotor is a magnet and a coil is housed in the plastic
part? What is the name of the coil? Is it pick-up coil?

There is a small metal piece, about 1mm wide and 10mm long, attached to
the side of the plastic part. Is the metal piece supposed to contact
the black rotor?

>A few questions here:
>1) What started all this anyway? (pun not intended)
>2) What symptoms did you experience prior to complete failur*e?

My wife was driving the car when it stalled. It lost power first, then
shook and died, based on her account. After many tries next day, it
started once and ran for 2 minutes in "P". It died again when it was
shifted to "D".

>3) Were there any ECU trouble codes?

I regret I did not try this as the first step. When the key is turned
to the ON position, the "check engine" light is on for a few seconds
and then off. Now all the parts have been taken off. The codes are not
accurate, I think.

>4) Did the engine misfire, or the tach act oddly?

I really do not know. It shook before dying. Is this caused by
misfiring.

>5) Had you replaced the timing belt just prior?

The timing belt was replaced many years ago. When I crank the engine,
the distributor rotor rotates slowly about one turn per second. Is it
normal?

I will probably replace the whole distributor this saturday. It will
elliminate these three sesors and the ignitor. If this does not work, i
will replace the ignition coil. If this still does not work, can ECU be
faulty? How to check if ECU is fauty?

Thanks.