Thanks for everyone's help on this...When I'm starting the engine, it
seems like the engine is starting normally up to about 1000 RPMs and
then the engine stops. When I do get the engine running I have my foot
pressed on the accelerator a little bit. All of the lights including
the clock go out when this occurs including Parking light on the dash
that tells you what gear you have the car in. I'm going to take a look
at the battery connections first and make sure everything is clean and
the ground is set correctly (may have come semi-loose). If that not
it, it may be the ignition switch possibly? I'll look into that as
well. Tomorrow I will have a look and get back to everyone. Thanks
again for your troubleshooting on this problem.

Nick


On 26 Dec 2004 15:53:36 -0800, "Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Now that I read your your post again, I might have misunderstood it:
>
>When the car stops, are you still trying to crank it with the starter?
>Or has it just started, you've released the key and now the car stalls?
>When you say that the dash lights go out, you mean they go out as they
>normally would when the car is running?
>
>If the car is cranking normally, I was wrong suggesting the starter or
>related issues so forget what I said in that case.
>John's suggestion is very valid. A convenient way to check the
>running/start position is to put a multimeter on any fuse that is
>powered while the car is running. The window wiper or cruise control,
>both under the dash, are good examples of fuses to use for this
>purpose.
>Note I am not suggesting that these fuses are blown: just that they
>should have 12V when the car is running/starting. If your car stops and
>the voltage disappears on these fuses, it means that the ignition
>switch or connecting wires might be your problem.
>If the voltage is still present and the car stops running, perhaps
>troubleshoot the ignition or fuel supply (possible main relay).
>
>Just making sure -- wouldn't want to steer you in a wrong direction.
>Regards,
>Remco