"Rattus the RAT" <rats_and_guns_n_rosesREMOVE-THIS@yahoo.com> floridly
penned in news:32pgclF3q8mfnU1@individual.net:

> I have a big problem now! I hope you can give me your opinion in the
> next 12 hours:
>
> My '91 Accord LX's ignition switch has been acting funny lately (hard
> to turn the key to start the car, able to remove the key when the car
> is running, stuff like that...). I was hoping to take advantage of my
> week off (this week) to go to my favourite honest honda specialist
> mechanic (25-30 miles away) to fix the problem BUT, the stupid thing
> died this weekend, they key won't turn, the car won't start
> (obviously).



If you remove the steering wheel and top and bottom column covers, you can
remove the lock cylinder and use a slim screwdriver to start the car. If
the ignition swith is functional, that is.

Have you tried a NEW KEY? Sometimes it's just an extremely worn key that
causes problems that are misdiagnosed as ignition switch problems. That you
can remove the key with the ignition on is a telltale for that.

Be pretty sad if you spend all this money and all it was, was a $3 key.



>
> So I called a few places nearby this morning, Firestone gave me the
> best quote ($225) so I got my car towed there this morning and asked
> them to fix the problem,




Sometimes the lowest quote isn't the best. I would not trust Firestone.




> the guy said no problem, should be ready by
> 5pm, call us or we'll call you. At 3pm I get a call, he's telling me
> the technician is not sure what the problem is and it seems long to
> find out, but he didn't have anything new to say. Finally at 6pm I
> call them and the car is not ready. He tells me that the technician
> did the following:
>
> Apparently there is a "top part" and a "bottom part" to this thing,



The ignition switch assembly consists of the lock cylinder and the ignition
switch itself. Both are easy to remove and test.

There are specified test procedures for checking the ignition switch.



> he
> said the tech cleaned the debris from the "top part" but the "bottom
> part" is not working. Car is not starting. Not a very clear
> description but that's all I know. He still couldn't give me any quote
> or anything, he said we'll call you tomorrow morning.



He probably means the ignition switch part contacts are burned and not
making full contact. This is the part that causes all the trouble for most
people.


>
> Now, what I need to know is: what the heck is that "top part" and
> "bottom part", how expensive each of them are? Also I am affraid they
> want to charge me a lot of labor for finding out the problem, which
> really sucks.
>
> What kind of Attitude I shouild have tomorrow when they call me or
> when I call them?



I think you should tell them to put it back together, pay them for the time
you asked them to spend on the car, and get the car towed to a Honda dealer
or a competent independent.

At least the Honda dealer will have the repair manuals, replacment parts,
past experience, and will be better able to diagnose your specific problem.

You are one of many to have this happen. Unfortunately the Firestone guy
has probably never seen this problem before, so he's just guessing.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/