An alignment guy worth his salt is not going to put anything into the
alignment that's not supposed to be there, though I have run across a few
who try to adjust things to compensate for roads or bad tires or whatever.
It is always the wrong thing to do. Avoid these guy like the plague unless
you like buying tires faster than you can pay for them.

In this case, if I read the OP correctly, the car is suddenly pulling
sharply to the left and it has also simultaneously grown a shake at speed.
That argues for a tire in the process of tread separation. He may or may
not need an alignment, but I would be really surprised if it fixes this
problem. I still say check the tire first.


On 10/17/04 2:09 PM, in article
Frzcd.64903$ci3.3825576@twister.southeast.rr.com, "Eightupman"
<eightupman@newemail.com> wrote:

> Not true....a misaligned car may not rear its ugly head until after the worn
> down tire is moved to the opposite side.
> For example, ,if you live in an are with crowned roads (for water drainage)
> any alignment guy worth his salt will put in a little toe to compensate for
> the naturan pull you would get while driving on said road. That tire will
> wear slightly different on that side. Over time, as the alignment wears
> away, the tire will wear more to compensate.
>
> Swap the tires and you will have it pull.
>
> Next topic...NEVER use used brake parts....you may save now, but will pay
> later in an accident if they fail.
>
>
> "E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote in message
> news:BD96A6A1.A89C9%e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org...
>> If they rotated the tires and it did not pull to one side before that, it
> is
>> almost certainly a bad tire. Check the tire before you waste money on an
>> alignment.
>>
>>
>> On 10/15/04 10:02 PM, in article
>> Ja0cd.68255$hk6.1290894@news20.bellglobal.com, "Jason"
>> <bluebook@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> My car never would shake at 75mph! They did rotate the tires... The
> idling
>>> is good but I've just noticed that the engine vibrates a little more
> than it
>>> used to before the tune up. The acceleration seems to be normal but it's
>>> definetely something with the tires... or the brake pads.
>>>
>>> I'll be doing an alignment tomorrow and if that doesn't fix the problem,
> I
>>> would bet the suspension would be the problem?
>>>
>>> I can't hear any scraping of the breaks but I do break often and I think
> I'm
>>> one of those "break-aholics"!! haha! I hope it I can wait a little
> before
>>> changing the breaks because I'm broke after these latest fixes I had to
> do!
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>> Jason
>>>
>>> "E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote in message
>>> news:BD954594.A825A%e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org...
>>>> On 10/15/04 7:33 AM, in article
>>>> asPbd.52238$3C6.1976679@news20.bellglobal.com, "Jason"
>>>> <bluebook@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I've just went for my major tune-up (maintenance) changing spark
> plugs,
>>>>> checking brakes and oil change. After getting back my car (Honda Civic
>>>>> hatchback 98) I noticed that the car while driving over the speed of
>>>>> 120km/h
>>>>> (or 75mph) I can feel the steering wheel shake and the car wanting to
>>>>> "turn"
>>>>> to the left... I'm thinking it could be just a alignment and
> everything
>>>>> should be fine?
>>>>
>>>> Did it shake before the tuneup? Did they rotate the tires? If it just
>>>> started this shaking after the tuneup and the tires were not changed,
> the
>>>> shake could be a misfire in the engine - which would mean they somehow
>>>> botched the tuneup. How smoothly does it idle? How is the
> acceleration
>>>> compared to before the tuneup?
>>>>
>>>> If they did rotate the tires, then the shake could be a tire out of
>>>> balance,
>>>> a tire failing or some suspension part has been damaged.
>>>>
>>>> Pulling to one side can be caused by a failing tire (which could also
>>>> explain the shake), alignment, failing or damaged suspension component,
> or
>>>> a
>>>> sticking brake caliper. Take a close look at the front left tire for
>>>> bulges
>>>> or any variation in its shape - it could be in the process of coming
>>>> apart.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also I was told that my front disc was almost finished and my break
> pads
>>>>> as
>>>>> well, anyone have any good ideas for me to save some cash? (Should I
> buy
>>>>> used, should I wait a little before changing?)
>>>>
>>>> This could also explain your pull to the left, if the left caliper is
>>>> sticking or the pad is completely gone. Do you hear a metallic
> scraping
>>>> noise when you apply the brakes? The longer you wait, the more it
> will
>>>> cost, as the pads grind up the rotor. Also would greatly reduce your
>>>> ability to stop the car once the pads are completely gone.
>>>>
>>>> You do not want used brake parts, but you can save some money if you
> buy
>>>> the
>>>> rotors from someplace other than the Honda dealer.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for every response (I had great help for my "Check Engine"
> light
>>>>> in
>>>>> the Honda newsgroups!)
>>>>>
>>>>> Jason
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>