John Ings <nodamned@spam.org> wrote in message news:<e3vjj0d6jc9amin08nlsejn55todoea03c@4ax.com>. ..
> On 4 Sep 2004 09:44:19 -0700, r2000swler@hotmail.com (Terry) wrote:
>
> >I am afraid the T-belt has really jumped and the engine is badly
> >out of time.
>
> Sounds like it. Put the front up on jackstands, remove the left front
> wheel, and find a socket big enough for the bolt on the crankshaft
> pulley. Turn it with that. This will be a two person operation but one
> can be a wife who doesn't want to get her hands dirty.
>
> Remove the rocker cover, watch for #1 cyl exhaust open & close, then
> #1 intake open & close. That's to make sure you're turning in the
> right direction. Then get a flashlight and look down the sparkplug
> hole for the piston. When you're close, clean off the face of the
> pulley and look for the timing marks.

Removed all four spark plugs, then the valve cover. Then ran the
starter to
verify engine direction of rotation. Then insered an 18" 3/8" wood
dowel.
With the plugs out, and the car jacekd up (and braced with several
4X4,
gravel driveway and jackstands are a bad idea) then rotated the crank
with
a T handle driver. At TDC #1 the distributor is pointing (roughly) in
the
proper direction, pointing where #1 plug wire would be if the cap was
in
place.
The valves behave like I would think correct. After TDC, with the
rotar
pointing at #1, as I rotated, on the next upward stroke the exhaust
valve
opens, then closes just before TDC, on the downward stroke, the intake
valve opens and near the bottom of cyl movement, intake closes, then
neither opens until after then next TDC would should be the power
stroke.

It started to sprinkle, so I covered up the valve train with plastic
wrap
and will check it all again Sunday afternoon. I will also get my wife
to check
the T-belt teeth, a quick look shows the belt to be in great shap, no
obvious
missing teeth, no cracks, no oil. I will also check compression if I
can find
a gauge long enough to go down to the spark plug hole. I thought that
with the valve cover off, I would have access to the spark plug base,
no go. They are
at the bottom of individual tubes, and my compression gauge is
designed
to work with "standard" heads, where the spark plus hole is easy to
get at.

I would think that even if I had blown/leaky intake valve the engine
should still at least attempt to start. Do pieces of intake valves
ever "break off"?

Terry